Stairway To Everest: Sagarmatha National Park

Written and Photographed by Brent Yontz and Jill Jones

In March of 2020, my wife Jill and I embarked on an expedition to Nepal in the Mount Everest Himalayas. Little did we know that a global pandemic was about to wreak havoc across the world. Above is the documentary film STAIRWAY TO EVEREST, and below are the images and journal entries from our expedition.

EXPEDITION DAY 1: March 9th, 2020

Today, we departed from Kathmandu and landed in the Himalayan village of Phaplu at 2,413 meters, about 7,918 feet. From the plane we caught our very first glimpse of Mount Everest. The landing into Phaplu was an experience in itself. As we carved our way through the valley, peaks higher in elevation than the plane raced by our windows. We hit violent updrafts of turbulence off the mountains and bounced up and down as if riding a roller coaster. The pilots, however, were amazing, and this was clearly not their first rodeo as they brought the plane into a smooth landing, which required a 180-degree rapid corkscrew descent barely skimming the treetops. On the final approach the airplane nose-dived quickly before pulling back up quickly for the landing, ending in a hard stop on the short, mountain runway.

Upon arrival, we met our Sherpa, Sher, and his daughter, outside the first teahouse of the trek. Sher has one daughter and one son, both are about high-school age and live in a small village about three hours from Phaplu. After a quick tea and moment to gather our things from the plane, we officially began our Himalayan journey towards Everest. The terrain at 2500 meters reminded me of southern California and Colorado alpine. The air was clean and crisp and there were fresh green pine trees as far as the eye could see, their aroma growing more intense with the gently blowing wind. Crystal mountain streams could be heard flowing down from the mountains in every direction.

We stopped for lunch in our first village and had a hearty meal of Ramen Noodles topped with fresh farmed scrambled eggs, cooked by a Nepalese mother carrying her newborn son on her back. After lunch, we continued along The Great Himalayan Trail, which became steeper and colder as we approached 3,000 meters, about 10,000'. The clouds at this elevation hid the higher peaks and we were surrounded by dense, gray fog for the rest of the day as the sun set. For the first time we hit patches of snow and ice.

We stopped for the night at Taksindu pass and settled into our first overnight teahouse. The bathroom took some getting acquainted with. The downstairs bathroom was a pink squatty-potty, essentially a very nice toilet bowl built directly into the concrete slab floor with ridges on the side for you to get your grip and do your business while squatting and getting a good leg workout. After completing your task, you would manually flush with a bucket of water and hand scrub the remains, disposing of your toilet paper in a separate trash bin. This still beat digging a hole in the dirt as we have had to do on our other mountain adventures through the Sierra.

We hit our first major snag in the trip tonight. Jill became very ill upon our arrival and had a hard time speaking and breathing due to fluid building up in her lungs. It is making us both nervous about being on this journey in remote terrain during the global COVID-19 pandemic. Thankfully, Nepal does not have cases at this point, so we can feel safe knowing Jill has a cold. It is hard to not let your mind go to the worst case scenario. For dinner, our expedition leader Bhairab, had her drink a small pot of lemon-ginger-honey tea with garlic soup and veggie mo-mos, which all seemed to help. The cold temperatures and damp, drafty teahouse can not be good for an illness though, we will see how she is doing in the morning. For tonight, we all sat around the Himalayan chimney to keep warm.

Tonight, we also met an American woman from Colorado named Susan. She was just passing through and having tea before continuing on. Her travel objectives were to trek through Bhutan, but she was denied access when the borders closed to try and control the Coronavirus outbreak. She is now making the best of it and trekking through Nepal with her guide for the next few days until she can figure out how to return to America. Tomorrow we will descend from the pass and climb back up the valley into Kharikhola in the Everest region. -BRENT

EXPEDITION DAY 2: March 10th, 2020

Today was a good day. We departed from Taksindu and hiked down the pass. The morning light was glorious and we could see the Himalayas, but it quickly clouded up and we were back in the clouds again for most of our descent. We passed through jungle terrain that felt very mystical in the fog, like a scene from the Lord of the Rings. After we cleared the clouds below 10,000-feet, we trekked through rich and fertile farmland. The way the Nepalese mountain people use these hills for farming and agricultural practices is amazing. It had me thinking about the similarities to the Native Americans cultivating the land and using every part they could with respect for their resources.

At the end of our descent, we crossed a suspension bridge over the waters of the Dudh Kosi river, fed by the melting Khumbu glacier ice. We are officially in the Everest region! The climb up to Kharikhola at 2015 meters was grueling, but the views and Nepalese people made it all worth it. The children are so cute and ask for chocolate as you walk by. Though, I have been advised not to give them any because they go and re-sell it. I guess that wouldn’t be so bad, they would make a good profit.

Our Sherpa, Sher, is one of the hardest working people I have seen. I respect his work and sacrifice to support his family. At night in Kharikhola, we had dal-bhat and lemon-ginger-honey tea with fresh cut apples and pomegranate before turning in for bed. Tomorrow we will trek to Puiyan at 2830 meters, about 10,000' again. Jill is feeling better today, but is still under the weather. -BRENT

Jill here. We are in bed at the teahouse, where electricity has been out for ten days. I have been sick since Friday. Thankfully, Brent has taken up the journaling. Finally feeling a bit better today. Being sick during a pandemic in another country has been scary. They have tested us for a fever at hotels. I am grateful to still be on the trek after Brent and I discussed pulling the plug last night. Today's journey alone gave me fuel for a lifetime of memories. Our guide, Bhairab, and Sherpa, Sher, have been warming up to us and I trust them, which is a relief after finding their company online. Life in the remote villages is something I am grateful to see and as hard as the trek is hard! This is a place you can only see on foot. I love hearing the people call to each other from a field away and seeing children playing and teenagers leading donkey trains by whistle. We are excited to see what the day brings tomorrow. -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 3: March 11th, 2020

Today we trekked from Kharikhola to Puiyan. This morning was beautiful. You could see the high mountains and it was very clear and sunny with some mist in the air. The temperature was perfect for trekking and I started with excitement for the day's adventure. Looking at the Himalayas is like stacking the Sierra Nevada mountains on top of the Rocky mountains. They are a sight to behold that the camera does no justice with regard to their scale and perspective.

As we climbed higher, the trail became very muddy and exposed along cliff-sides with 10,000-foot drops. Many donkey trains came through the trail, for which we had to stop and let pass. At one point there was a traffic jam between two opposing trains, which became very confusing for both the donkeys and the "donkey drivers."

Also along the trek we witnessed the birth of modern expansion in the foothills as a bulldozer cleared rocks and trees for the road that will connect Phaplu to Lukla. After trekking through miles of mud and donkey poop, we arrived at the Everest Lodge in Puiyan to a warm meal, bed and beautiful Himalayan sunset. The teahouse is eerily empty due to the global pandemic, we are the only tenants. It is hard to know how these places will stay in business through this outbreak. Jill is still ill, which makes things very difficult. I hope she will recover soon. Tomorrow we will trek to Phakding at 2830 meters. -BRENT

The biggest shock regarding my expectations of this trek from Phaplu to Namche is the climbing through the hills and valleys. According to Nepal standards, these are hills, but according to American standards, these are mountains! We are both sore after three-days of climbing for seven-hours plus. It is very similar to climbing Mount San Antonio "Mt. Baldy" in California at 10,064-feet, but more steep, and doing it every single day. And yes, I am still sick and taking it day by day. Every time we turn a corner, we are greeted with a grand view or scene that makes it all worth it. But I don't want to be stupid about my health. Tough decisions are ahead.

Tonight we had dal bhat for dinner and learned it is not only polite to finish your meal, it is also polite to ask for refills. So we are going to bed with very full stomachs. I am trying to stick with my mantra, "positive, open and present," but the coughing makes it hard. Thankful to be here with Brent sharing an unforgettable journey. How are we only four-days in? -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 4: March 12th, 2020

We're on the map! Last night was very scary for us. Jill was having a hard time breathing from her illness, and we both stayed up most of the night trying to look at options to get her to a hospital or Lukla to both fly back to Kathmandu. The fear is that as we climb higher into the Himalaya, altitude will complicate her already minimized lung capacity. Therefore, we shortened our day and rather than going all the way to Phakding, we have stopped for the night in Chheplung at 2660 meters. We are about a 45-minute walk from Lukla, which has a hospital and airport if she gets worse. If she feels better, we can continue on our journey. It feels nice to officially be on the Everest trail. There are more trekkers and infrastructure to support the tourism of the Everest region, though I do not regret the experience of having seen the real Himalayan people and countryside these last few days. It has been like stepping back in time to what the old west might have felt like in the United States in the 1800's and early 1900's. Tomorrow we will see where we are with Jill's sickness and either continue on or pull the plug. -BRENT

EXPEDITION DAY 5: March 13th, 2020

We have moved forward ever closer to Mount Everest. Jill had a good night and though her recovery is slow, She is feeling a little better. We trekked from Chheplung to Monjo at 2840 meters. The tourists on this main route to Everest come from all walks of life and nationalities. It is a world of difference from the first part of the expedition, which was more authentically Nepalese through the villages and foothills. Everything on the main route is tailored for comfort and tourists, even the food has changed to a more western diet like pizza, cheeseburgers, Irish pubs and coffee shops. It feels nice and comfortable, yet also a bit sad to see the Nepalese culture needing to commercialize itself for western tourists.

We crossed many high suspension bridges today. By the last one we were caught in a heavy rain storm, which put all of our rain gear systems to the test and they passed! When the clouds cleared, a beautiful dusting of snow revealed itself just above 3000 meters (10,000-feet), which made the mountains look like one of those model train sets with a fake dusting of snow.

One thing I am amazed of culturally here is the domination of smartphones. The Nepalese people walk the high mountain trails looking at and or talking on their phones. At night in the lodges, they look at videos rather than interacting with each other. Sometimes the phones are used to bond with each other, in the case of our guide Bhairab and Sherpa, Sher. They like to watch YouTube comedy videos in their native language together and laugh while drinking their tea.

It is getting really cold now as we approach the snow line in the mountains and these storms are bringing colder temperatures. The weather is not ideal for Jill's illness and we are beginning to put on almost all of our cold weather layers to stay warm at night. -BRENT

Well, I'm still here! We arrived for the night in Monjo and are now only a few hours away from Namche. Last night I slept well with no coughing, so we decided to proceed to Hotel Everest View. I'm grateful for every day we have here. Today we passed through Phakding, one of the main tourist hubs along the trail. The difference between the rural trail from Phaplu and this main artery is night and day.

On our last stretch of trail today it poured rain and I developed a bad stomach ache. With my running nose and cough it was a real physical test to keep moving forward! Our room, though, is warm and it's nice to hear the rain going on the tin roof. Looking forward to tea later. We learned that one of the largest mountains, Khumba Yul Lha, which means “God of Khumbu,” is sacred and has never been climbed. I'm hoping in the next three to four days I can make a full recovery to do Everest Base Camp. Bhairab said to think positive thoughts only, so here is to making it happen. -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 6: March 14th, 2020

Today we arrived in Namche Bazaar! The Sherpa capital and city built into the mountain-side is other-worldly, like a fictional mountain civilization in a fantasy film like Lord of the Rings. The 6000 meter and 8000 meter Himalayas tower over the city. We are at about 3,400 meters (11,286 feet) and can definitely begin feeling the elevation. We started our first dose of Diamox, which requires you to pee four to five-times per dose. Then, you have to hurry to replenish those fluids so not to become dehydrated.

On the way to Namche we passed through the golden gate of Sagarmatha National Park and across three suspension bridges including the infamous Hillary Bridge, which towers hundreds of feet over the valley floor. I am not going to lie, it was pretty scary once more people got on the bridge and it started swaying back and forth and bouncing up and down. I think if you can stomach this crossing you can stomach a crevasse crossing through the Khumbu. Walking along the river reminded me of many locations we have traversed back in America, from the rivers running through the San Gabriel Mountains to the Sierra Nevada's rivers. The water is so vibrant and turquoise in color and the smell of the pine trees made me feel like I could be back in our home state of California.

The best part of the journey so far was meeting up with Jill's parents and hearing stories of their adventure so far. I really need a shower but there is still not hot water in the lodges and we have crossed the freezing snow line, which makes it difficult to get dry and stay dry. Right now, fresh sleet and snow is falling all around us as the higher peaks have disappeared behind gray snow clouds.

During this acclimatization day, we stocked up on supplies at the market with Bhairab. It is still very eerie to be on this journey during a global pandemic. There are only a handful of other trekkers that we've encountered, three to be exact. It's as if we have entered the gates of a forbidden kingdom that has been closed off to the rest of the world. Tomorrow we will trek higher

up to Hotel Everest View. Hopefully, weather permitting, we will get our first glimpse of Mount Everest on foot. -BRENT

Today we trekked from Monjo to Namche Bazaar. Glad to be out of the rain, but we have traded it for snow! And the best part was meeting up with my parents in Namche. My breath was taken away by the unique city on a hill. And by hill, I mean mountain. The trail up was steep and for the first time we shared the trail with other trekkers. Glad that we have been able to experience the more rural parts of Nepal. When you enter Namche, it has large water-powered prayer wheels and a towering stupa. Bhairab took us to the trekking store and pharmacy. We also got a card for using the internet and some booties that look like moon boots. In the afternoon, they put on a film at the hotel (Comfort Inn) about the Sherpa's and "Icefall Doctors" on Mount Everest. Their stories feel more compelling than the western climbers! At night, we took our first Diamox, which had both of us up to use the bathroom multiple times. The village dogs howled all night long. They reminded me of the sounds from a movie Brent and I saw at the Telluride Film Festival together when we first met, Waltz with Bashir. Tomorrow, we will continue on to Hotel Everest View. -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 7: March 15th, 2020

Today we saw the highest mountain in the world for the first time with our own eyes outside of an airplane. The mighty Sagarmatha, Mount Everest, revealed itself from behind the clouds as we climbed out of Namche and arrived at Hotel Everest View at 3880 meters, about 13,000-feet.

Once we arrived, we had a really nice celebration lunch with family and our amazing guides and Sherpa teams, who have now become good friends. Outside our window we have a barrel view of Mount Everest. It's icy summit is daunting and intimidating as ever, and it feels good to see the highest mountain in the world from the highest hotel in the world.

Jill's illness, unfortunately, has not gotten better from the day we started the expedition. We made a tough executive decision that she would not continue on with the trek. Instead, she will return with her parents back to Namche. The fear is that as we climb higher, her sickness will worsen in the extreme cold and high altitude. I will continue on with the expedition team to Kala Patthar. The weather up here has been unpredictable and unseasonably cold. A blizzard moved through the mountains tonight with ferocious winds and dumped fresh snow around us and on the high peaks. It caused a whiteout and iced over our windows in the hotel. It has become pretty daunting to think about what lies ahead in the higher zones. If the conditions are this rough down here, what are they like up there? Altitude sickness was always a concern, but should I be worried now about hypothermia and frostbite? There are still a lot of factors that could end this expedition quickly, not to mention new threats from the Coronavirus. We are the only people staying in Hotel Everest View. It is empty because of the virus, which has made it very surreal and eerie. To make another movie reference, with the blizzard raging outside it feels like The Shining. We are four days from the Kala Patthar summit. We'll see what happens. -BRENT

Today we trekked from Namche to Hotel Everest View and were rewarded with our first beautiful view of Mount Everest! What a sight! The sun was out all morning and we enjoyed hiking with my parents. We learned Nepalese songs and shared lunch with our guides and porters. The hotel is a welcome respite after being cold for six-days. I am still ill and we are discussing contingency plans for the next few days. It is now snowing which is not typical for this time of year. This is turning into a winter trek, which is scary for my cold. The hotel has heated beds, which feel like the best luxury. We are catching up on the news after six-days of no internet. The Coronavirus is in full swing in the United States and causing all production to cease and schools to close. Everyone is practicing social distancing. I am glad to be here and also anxious about how our travel could be impacted as well as our lives. The global impact is striking, and it was sad to hear we will be our guide's first and last trek of the season. After overcoming political turmoil in Nepal over the last decade, followed by the deadly 2015 earthquake and already worsening poverty and crumbling infrastructure, the Coronavirus outbreak is the last thing this beautiful country needs. Here is hoping it will all end soon. -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 8: March 16th, 2020

Today was really hard. I left my love in Namche and continued by myself with the assistance of my guide, Bhairab, and Sherpa Sher, towards Mount Everest. One of the most challenging things for me is being on the trail in remote terrain with no communication with Jill. I love her so much and it breaks my heart that she has not been able to continue the journey with me.

The trek today was really beautiful, but grueling. It required every bit of lung capacity and mental strength that I had. The trail was very muddy and icy. My feet went ankle deep into mud, which would then change quickly to snow and black ice in the shaded, north facing sections of trail. This made the trail very challenging to keep your balance and both Sher and Bhairab have slipped and almost fallen a few times.

At about 3:00 p.m. we arrived in Pangboche at 4,000 meters, nearly 13,000-feet. I am feeling a bit of a headache coming on and hoping it is weather or dehydration related rather than altitude sickness. We will see how I am doing tonight. The goal for tomorrow is to reach Lobuche at 4,910 meters, 16,000-feet. Lobuche will serve as our Kala Patthar base camp and final outpost before the summit push. I have never been at 16,000' before, let alone tried to sleep that high. I am personally in uncharted territory now and do not know how my body will react. Bhairab says "who knows this," with regards to what my body will do and jokes that it is all a big experiment. At Lobuche and a little higher at Gorak Shep, Bhairab has been on expeditions where people have ripped off all their clothes in below freezing conditions and succumbed to hallucinations and deadly altitude sickness. I have no expectations of a summit and continue to take this journey day by day, one step at a time because again as Bhairab says, "who knows this." I feel the pressure to move quickly in order to get back, and out of the country sooner than expected as I fear the pandemic is going to have unintended consequences for people who stay much longer in this region. -BRENT

Today, we decided that I am not well enough to continue on to base camp. I felt very emotional for various reasons like disappointment, frustration and also sad to be away from Brent during our wedding trip in a world pandemic. But this place is beyond my imagination. The elements are rough. It snowed two feet last night and the halls of the five-star Hotel Everest View are freezing. Altitude makes it hard to breathe and I can not imagine 15,000 feet and beyond. It’s otherworldly and feels like trying to live on another planet. So, we shared tears upon Brent’s departure. I am holding onto my mantra of “open, positive, and present.” After Brent left we hiked to the village of Khumjung, where many climbing sherpas live. We visited the Hillary school, the Hillary hospital, and two Buddhist monasteries. I am grateful for this time with my parents and their support in my decision. Of course, I feel much better not hiking eight-hours a day at full exertion. This trip is not even three weeks in and yet it is already life-changing. We sat around a heater, fueled by yak poop, with a British hiker and nine- year-old brilliant Nepalese girl. The joker was coughing without covering her mouth and the little girl told her to cover her mouth because of coronavirus. What a day. -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 9: March 17th, 2020

I am now nearing my previous high mountain record, Mount Whitney, standing at 4,410 meters, about 14,410-feet in Dingboche. On Mount Whitney, the highest mountain in the lower 48 United States at 14,505-feet, I had succumbed to high altitude mountain sickness and slipped out of its grasp just in time before it could get deadly. I opted to spend the night in Dingboche instead of Lobuche, fearing that I would be climbing too high too fast. If I were to get sick at night in Lobuche that would be the end of this trip and we would have to pull the plug immediately and descend quickly. This has extended the expedition by one day.

Today was still a very hard and slow climb and I am definitely feeling the altitude. For many miles I have had to use the step-step-breathe technique just to keep myself from losing my breath. As I climb higher, I am listening to my movie scores on my iPod. It makes the trekking so epic and makes me feel like the main character in a Hollywood movie set against the backdrop of the Himalayas. I am in awe every single second that I am trekking among these giants. The world's highest mountains do not disappoint. I am very thankful to be here and really missing Jill. I wish she could see what I see. Tomorrow we will attempt to reach Lobuche, but there is still a chance I could get altitude sickness tonight or tomorrow and need to descend. We will see what happens. -BRENT

I awoke today with more openness towards having a different experience. We started early in the morning heading back towards Namche, taking a different path along the way due to the snow and ice from the storm. A street dog which dad named Fido followed us for much of the way. Due to the risk of rabies, we can’t pet them. My parent’s guide, Tarzan, and Porter Ole Miss, have good warm spirits. They found a nicer teahouse called Hotel Tibet for us. They have bathrooms included and warm fleece bed sheets. We found a coffee shop and were inundated with all of the coronavirus news. It is all pretty scary, not just the virus but the economic impact. However, being in Nepal gives a sense of perspective on both life and money. If six months of work goes down the drain, so be it. We do not know yet if or how we will get home. Other tourists are taking helicopters out due to closing borders and increasing quarantines. We are taking it day by day. The light here in Namche is beautiful. The streets are often half lit with prayer flags flying in the wind. It feels like a cocoon city cradled beneath the biggest mountains in the world. I borrowed my dad’s book, Arresting God in Kathmandu by Samrat Upadhyay. It is fun to see how our experience gives familiarity to the places and food in the book, and it also gives me a better sense of the societal pressures here, which are to marry, fulfill family obligations, etc. Looking forward to tomorrow. -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 10: March 18th, 2020

Today we reached Lobuche at 4900 meters, about 16,100-feet. This is really high above sea level and I can really feel it. My head pounds all the way around and I am nauseous with aching and very sore muscles as I struggle for each breath. As we ascended into Lobuche, we trekked through the memorial grounds of climbers killed on Mount Everest. There were at least one-hundred stone erected graves and memorials for climbers of all nationalities. It was a truly somber and humbling experience. The markers stretched for as far as the eye could see among the backdrop of the snow and glacial covered mountains.

Once we arrived at our base camp, we had lunch and then climbed up a hill next to the base at 5,000 meters, about 16,404-feet to catch a glimpse of the Khumbu icefall and glacier. It is really cold at this elevation, some of the coldest temperatures I have experienced. Tomorrow we will get up at 5:00 a.m. and trek towards the summit of Kala Patthar. I hope the altitude does not get to me before then. I am so close to achieving this goal. At 5,000 meters I had a barrel view of the summit. It is now within reach. If all goes as planned tomorrow, I hope to spread my mom's ashes in remembrance and take pictures and video. I hope the night and mountain gods are kind to me. More tomorrow. -BRENT

Today was the quietest day of our trip so far. We are resting for a day in Namche while Brent continues to EBC. We went to the same coffee shop three times! And, decided to do souvenir shopping at different spots as all of the merchants are

hurting from the lack of tourists. I bought a few spoons with the Nepalese flag on the handle and we found a T-shirt for Grant. I continued reading my book and took some pictures on mom's camera. My favorite is of the water powered prayer wheels captured with a low shutter speed. This time with my parents feels special. My dad has recovered from cancer, and for a while we did not know if this trip would be possible. It truly is a once in a lifetime experience. We love the lemon-ginger-tea and have ordered many small pots of it. I appreciate stillness as much as adventure. 2:00 pm rolled around and we could not believe it! It felt like 10:00 pm. Australian trekkers are rushing back as the government is closing the borders. We met one man who was attempting to helicopter back to Lukla. They then cancelled his trip and asked him to pay more! He had knee problems but decided to hike all the way down. I am holding to my mantra, “positive, open, present.” POP! At night, our guide Tarzan offered me a hot water compress to help warm my chest during the night. The kindness here is really something. -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 11: March 19th, 2020

We made it! What a day. We stood at 18,500-feet on the summit of Kala Patthar. It was a dream that came true and everything I could have ever envisioned. I wish Jill was with me, though. The journey was not easy and definitely the most personally challenging physical feat I have ever done. Having a front row seat to Mount Everest is a feeling I can not describe. It is one of the greatest feelings in the world.

We started our trek at 6:00 a.m. and climbed through the Khumbu glacier moraine to Gorak Shep, and then straight up the steep Kala Patthar trail. Early on, the temperatures were so cold that my entire one-liter water bottle froze solid within five-minutes. In an attempt to break up some of the ice so I could drink, I spilled some water on the back of my camera and it froze solid on contact.

At the summit, the view of Mount Everest and Lotse was spectacular. The winds were blowing ferociously across the exposed peak, making it a true high Himalayan summit experience with the tattered prayer flags blowing violently in the wind. Once we made it to the summit, I took a moment to hug both Sher and Bhairab and thank them for getting me to the top successfully. While we were on the peak, we had about thirty-minutes to achieve a checklist of items. Bhairab and Sher attached prayer flags from the summit to an Everest Base Camp flag I had brought up, which was a huge honor. We captured pictures, video and I took a moment to spread my mom's ashes in a nook near the summit where the wind would not blow them away as easily. This was the highest point in the world that I have spread her ashes, and she now has a front row seat to Everest. Bhairab took a picture of me spreading the ashes and told me "your mom would be very proud of you," which meant a lot. He had lost his father around the same time I lost my mom and we were both the same age during those losses, so he knew what it felt like. After achieving these tasks, we began an aggressive descent back into the Khumbu valley. This is when altitude sickness really began to set in, and we high-tailed it down.

On our way down, teahouses were beginning to close due to the Coronavirus, making it difficult to find somewhere to stay for the night and eat. We stopped in Pangboche, where we arrived to a group of hikers from Britain who were panicking about the virus and travel bans going into effect in the UK, fearing that they would not be able to get out of Nepal. Tomorrow we will trek to Phakding to meet Jill and her family. There, we will look at our options for getting out of the country as soon as possible. -BRENT

The summit of Kala Patthar at 18,519’ above sea level.

After resting in Namche, it felt good to move our legs again and head down to Monjo. What an easier journey down instead of up! The light was beautiful and the soil was soft with pine needles. I thought the trek back may be boring, but it’s a

completely different view and just as beautiful. We walked along with other porters and women of all ages carrying wooden baskets filled with necessities. I am struck by the number of women I see dusting off the trail in front of their homes. It seems futile to dust dirt, but it shows their pride and reveals how this trail maintains its beauty. At night, we met the hotel owners and their 13-year-old son who typically goes to school in India. They closed the schools there because of the virus, so he took a night train to come back to Nepal to stay with his parents. He’s clearly disappointed, but he is such a charming young person with a good handle on several languages. He helps Tarzan to add up our bill carefully. After another delicious round of dal bhat, we headed to bed to sleep inside our liners, inside the sleeping bag, under the comforter at 30-degrees. -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 12: March 20th, 2020

We arrived in Phakding and met with Jill and her parents. This morning was incredibly beautiful. Fresh snow fell overnight, about two-feet, and blanketed the high mountains and forests. It was a winter wonderland that felt like stepping into the Chronicles of Narnia. The hike was long and hard but very bittersweet.

When we arrived in Phakding, we celebrated with Pringles and Everest beers. However, the mood quickly changed when Nepal's Prime Minister came on the television and addressed the nation that the country would be going into full lock- down at midnight to contain the spread of the Coronavirus. No international flights in or out of the country for the next ten- days. This news sent everyone in the teahouse scrambling into crisis management mode to figure out what to do next in this new age of the COVID-19 global pandemic. -BRENT

EXPEDITION DAY 13: March 21st, 2020

Today we trekked to Lukla, the official end of our expedition through the Himalayan mountains. The trek was eerie as we did not see any trekkers coming up or down. Everyone, it appears, has gotten out fast because of the Coronavirus and closing of Nepal's borders.

When we arrived, hotels and shops were also closing down and workers were returning to their home villages. We called the U.S. Embassy to inquire about our options for getting back to the United States, but we were met with busy signals and messages suggesting American's in Nepal were on their own with figuring out their escape plans from the country. Anxiety and tensions are high among everyone. We are in uncharted territory. We will need to investigate our options further when we arrive back in Kathmandu. Tomorrow at 9:00 a.m. we fly out of Lukla, one of the most dangerous airports in the world. -BRENT

Jill here, journaling again! Today was our last day of trekking on our journey. It was an emotional and beautiful day with a three-hour trek back to Lukla. I woke up feeling a mixture of joy, terror, anxiety and bittersweet emotions about the end of this trip of a lifetime. We passed the town we stayed in earlier in our journey and it already felt nostalgic. In just so many days, we have become accustomed to trail life and the rhythm of our days here. It's hard to look forward to facing the realities of the world during the pandemic and quarantine lockdowns. But tonight we celebrated with food, drinks and music around the chimney. What a journey. -JILL

EXPEDITION DAY 14: March 22nd, 2020

Today we successfully departed Lukla, one of the world's most dangerous airports. Jill's parents proceeded us and arrived safely in Kathmandu. Me and Jill were delayed for about three-hours as a single flight flew the route carrying cargo between Kathmandu and Lukla. Once the flight had completed it's cargo run due to the virus, we were boarded quickly and raced down the short runway at the edge of the cliff before all the passengers had time to put their seat belts on. We had officially left the Himalayan mountains.

When we arrived in Kathmandu, the mood was much different than when we had left. Flights in and out were grounded due to the virus and the Nepalese military was on the move. It was very warm and the air was clear from a recent rainstorm that had moved through, something to be thankful for.

At the hotel, I took a hot shower for the first time in fourteen-days, shaved and cleaned myself up. It was glorious. We said a heart-felt goodbye to Bhairab, and unfortunately had missed a goodbye with Sher in Lukla due to the flight delay.

Tonight we went to dinner with our expedition organizer, Ram, as the news of the virus blared over the TV. The restaurant workers stood around watching the news as we ate. No one else was in the restaurant and the streets were quiet and empty. Tomorrow, we will attempt to leave Nepal. -BRENT

FINAL JOURNAL ENTRY: April 2, 2020

We made it back to Los Angeles and have spent a week in self-isolation due to the restrictions. We have unpacked, done laundry, rested up, ordered many grocery deliveries and are adjusting to the new quarantine life as we let the memories of Nepal settle into our minds and hearts. Yesterday, my Grandy passed away. I am grateful that his sense of adventure inspired me throughout the years as he had collected stacks and stacks of National Geographic magazines. He will be missed forever. As we begin to tell the story of our trip, it is still hard to put into words the wonder, awe and adventure we had. These days of celebration, family, love, culture, and beauty will be treasured for the rest of our lives as we enter a new world gripped by a global pandemic. -JILLMore

POST NEPAL EXPEDITION

After returning to Los Angeles during the height of the pandemic, Jill and I certified as personal fitness trainers. I served as an International Sports Sciences Association (ISSA) and National Council For Certified Personal Trainers (NCCPT) NCCA Accredited Certified Personal Trainer, CPT, and worked with entertainment professionals, U.S. Military Veterans and AmeriCorps Service Members, the elderly and people with chronic health conditions, and created and produced lifestyle and fitness media with Jill, who served as an ISSA Certified Yoga Instructor with the City of Burbank Parks and Recreation Department.

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